18a Castle Menzies

Castle Menzies is a 16th century ‘Z-plan’ castle, restored in the latter half of the 20th century by the Menzies Clan Society and now owned and administered by The Menzies Charitable Trust.

It is a fine example of the transition in Scottish castles from heavily fortified structures to the elegant mansion houses of later years.

The castle was the seat of the chiefs of the Clan Menzies for over five hundred years. The Menzies families came to Scotland from Normandy during the reign of David I (1124-53) , and are thought to have been established in Perthshire by the middle of the 12th century.

They built several fortified residences in Tayside, including Comrie Castle, now a ruin, situated four miles away between the River Lyon and the high ground below Drummond Hill. After a fire devastated  the castle, the site of a new building at the base of Weem Rock was chosen in 1488 by the 11th Baron Menzies, Sir Robert Menzies. Known as the Place of Weem, it was smaller than the present castle. However, this too was burnt down when attacked in 1502 by Neil Stewart of Garth Castle.

Some time afterwards it was rebuilt and enlarged into the present building, either on the same site as the Place of Weem or immediately adjacent to it. The original Z-plan castle was not only a residence for the chief, his family and followers, but had to be strongly fortified against his enemies in a turbulent period of history. It is possible that the earliest Z-plan castle at Weem had battlements, and two towers were built, a bell tower and a lookout tower. By 1577, alterations were made which made it less of a fortress and more like the present building.  The ornate dormer windows probably date from this period.  

During the next century the castle was directly involved in the second Jacobite rising of 1745. P rince Charles Edward Stuart (Bonnie Prince Charlie) stayed at the castle for two nights in 1746 on his way to Culloden, and only four days later the castle was occupied by the Government troops led by the Duke of Cumberland.

By  the late 17th and early 18th century,  the castle was becoming less of a fortress and more of a gentleman’s residence. A new wing was added with rooms for entertaining, with more bedrooms and a grand wooden staircase.  The present entrance was formed, leading to the wooden staircase and replacing the original entrance which was the much smaller door behind the iron yett in the south-west tower.  

A painted stone panel above the earlier entrance records the marriage in 1571 of James Menzies to Barbara Stewart, daughter of the Earl of Atholl; the current entrance porch dates to the 19th century. The older building had to be altered to allow access to the new wing from all floors. A large complex of kitchens, storerooms, stables, staff quarters and other buildings was added to the rear of the castle, but nothing of these now remains except for the warden’s cottage and some low walls. 

In 1840 another new wing was added, built of local stone and designed by architect William Burn in a style in keeping with the old building. It was connected with the 18th century wing.

From 1855 to 1858 Duleep Singh, the last maharajah of the Sikh Empire and friend of Queen Victoria, leased the castle after his exile from the Punjab in 1854. His new-born son is buried locally in a polished granite tomb opposite the door of Kenmore Church.

From now on began the sad decline of what was once a grand Scottish residence. The 8th Baronet, Sir Neil Menzies, inherited the estate in 1903 but died without heirs in 1910. For some time before this and as a result of financial constraints, the Menzies family had been leasing out the castle and had moved to Farleyer, a smaller mansion nearby. In 1914 at the outbreak of WWI the extensive Menzies estates, totalling more than 11,000 acres, were divided up and auctioned off by his trustees, along with the contents of the castle. Tragically, these included many priceless Clan Menzies relics. The contents of the muniments room were sold in lots, scattering far and wide the accumulated four hundred years of recorded local and clan history. The castle itself was sold in 1918.

It then passed through the hands of various owners and tenants, none of whom could afford the considerable sums needed for its upkeep, until in 1957 it was bought for less than £300 by the recently formed Menzies Clan Society. By then it was in a semi-ruinous state, and there was very little money available to do anything about it.

Gradually some money was raised, first of all to do much-needed roof repairs and demolish some outhouses. The general public could not be admitted at this time as the building was in far too dangerous a condition. In 1971-72 surveys were carried out which indicated that unless more urgent work was carried out, the castle would be lost. Appeals for funds were made and plans were drawn up for the restoration of the 16th century Z-plan part of the building. Work commenced in 1972 and continued for many years. Much of the 18th century wing had to be demolished. During this time the public were admitted on unofficial tours, which helped to raise funds, and in 1983 the first castle warden was appointed.  

In 1990, the restoration of the 19th century ‘Victorian’ west wing began and a connecting passage built between the 16th century Z-plan building and the Victorian wing to allow access at ground level. A tearoom was opened and a large room on the first floor, formerly known as the ballroom, was restored and named the Dewar Room after Dr Bill Dewar and his wife who did so much to restore the castle.  The Menzies Charitable Trust was set up in 1993 and assumed ownership of the castle, along with the walled garden which had been purchased in 1984 and the Menzies Mausoleum in the Old Kirk at Weem where many of the family who lived in the castle are buried.   

Because the castle was stripped of its contents when sold in 1914, it is more sparsely furnished than other Scottish castles, but this allows the visitor to get a better feel for the structure of the castle with its rugged stone walls, shot holes and original timbers.     

For information on the individual Heritage Trail locations, click on these links:

00: A brief history of the Churches in the Aberfeldy area; 01: The Square; 02: Aberfeldy Town Hall;

03: Former St. Andrew’s Church; 04: Birks of Aberfeldy; 05: Moness House; 06: Aberfeldy Hospitals;

07: Former Wee Free Chapel; 08: Independent Chapel; 09: The Watermill; 10: Parish Church;

11: Breadalbane Academy; 12: St. Margaret’s Church; 13: Black Watch memorial; 14: Aberfeldy Golf Club;

15: Wade’s Bridge; 16: Weem Parish Church; 17: Menzies Mausoleum; 18a Castle Menzies;

18b Castle Menzies Walled Garden; 19: Our Lady of Mercy’s RC Church; 20: Aberfeldy Branch Line.